But today is window replacement day, not just any window, the windows upstairs in the house are really easy to do today, we're going to tackle the basement window. Because if you can do a basement window, you can take care of any window or door in your house. So what we have here is an awning style window, and it's set right in the concrete of the foundation of the home. So what we've got to do is remove this clean this up prep, the new space to slide, the new window in we're, just going to take a little.A bit of work because the homeowner here has done something creative for us. This is not window casing. This is drywall returns right into the jamb. And that means we've got to open up the interior of the building a little and try to do this in such a way that when we're done, we can cover it with casing and not have to do a lot of Pat's or repair work the process.
Traditionally, what the window is simple, you take out the glass section. You cut the frame, you peel the frame off. And then you have a. Nice big hole, you just clean up inserts a new window shim. It foams, if you're done here, we're going to have to resize the inside of the frame. So unfortunately, instead of just a couple of basic tools and might need to pull out a little of special tools and get those done. But right now we got a get rid of drywall corners without breaking the glass, preferably.
So we got to expose it and get your climb behind. Yes. They just use nails.
You set up screws and look at I've already, put a hole in the wall. That's just great sometimes there's, just no easy way to do this when you're pulling this corner bead off, you got to be really careful. This metal is sharp, it's, galvanized sorta.
But it rusts you can see that. So this kind of stuff could cause injuries. He just got to be real careful. So it amazes me is when people install really tiny little pieces of drywall. They use more nails than they're doing a whole sheet. Funny I love. My drywall hammers.
It acts like a great big, pry bar hatchet. We've got a hammering. Surface as well, gives you a little of flexibility. So when you're measuring your window before you order for replacement, you want to do it from the inside and the outside just to confirm when we were measuring this one, we ordered a 48 anticipating that we had a jam extension and then a gap for installation on the side. But what we have is because they frame the inside of the house so tight to the jamb to just put a little of drywall return, although the space where the window is big. Enough the space in the wall, isn't, so we're going to have to live and modification on the actual wall itself, here's, an earful painting. If you do have this kind of window, and you have a draft the best way to solve that problem, open it up and just line it with a new gasket, your compass, no need to smash the glass.
If you take it out one piece, okay, that's our screen. One of the benefits of getting rid of the old is it. You don't have to be too careful with it. Now, just a quick word here before you go. And start tearing out the healed window and being really committed, especially in the wintertime right now, it's cold enough, but the snow isn't melting. You really want to double-check your measurements. The funny thing is about this job is this is our second attempt.
The first time the windows are the wrong side. So it's glad we didn't, just jump ahead and start ripping things apart, because it does take a few weeks. You should leave where you get them again, no risk what we're going to do is we're going. To cut through this wood and then start peeling this space open. So just use a sawmill, kick blade don't have to spend a lot of money on this. So you can use this about anything you're just looking for a little leverage. You can use a hammer I wouldn't suggest one little small, red, pry bars, just because the edges are sharp.
And if you flip you're going to put a hole in your hand, basically that's, it just lift it up and off easier to clean up the mess outside and inside. And you will see as this window. Was installed when we poured the concrete very interesting there we go, you know, what's coming downwards. So we've checked the size of our hole, but because they pour the concrete around the frame there's, this area down the middle here, this through it's in the way of our new window we're, just taking our chisel. Hello popping that off I don't. Think it will be in the way.
But when I go to insulate I want the insulation to be where the glass is, and that line represents where the glass is going to be, so I. Don't want to have stone as my insulator. We want to get rid of that. So we can get our expansion foam in there, make sure we're not going to have any draft. So here we go. Another dry effect.
What we want to do is we want to establish as window is tight to the sill as we can so that we have a nice seal for the moisture, but the same time we want to make sure we have enough of a gap that I can get in here. And for my installation foam, so I just want to get right there, a couple of shims now, they're, not. Going right through on the outside, we have the concrete remember the window was like set into the sill where they had parted up to it. So if I don't lift it up too much, then we'll still be able to just finish off the outside with a bit of you know, acrylic talking you want to level all right so that's. Perfect doesn't always happen. The first time, actually, no, if you watch enough of our videos, you've seen that happen a few times, it's just perfect every time.
So here we go. We have only a 15-inch tall. Window so I'm, not really going to spend a lot of energy trying to make sure that it's square, the way that these are built with those unibody construction.
This is square it's, not going to change putting in a bigger window double check make sure that you're square as well. You don't want to put in the window that's level across the bottom. But sitting like this, it won't operate properly. So once you're done filming this in will just confirm that slides are working great. Now, you'll notice lovely they.
Sent it with screws that's for another day, we have nothing to screw this into. Now you could pull out a drill, a pilot hole and Tapton, screw right into the concrete, but I'll, tell you what if you put an expansion foam around this window and all four sides, it's, not going anywhere, guaranteed. So what we're going to do give our sim clean up our space, a little here, and we're going to film it? So there are a few different types of expansion foam out there, guys that do windows for a living and. General contractors, I mean, we all have our special tools, it's like a gun, and it has a stop on it. So that the foam doesn't harden up and render the rest of the cane useless.
But for most people you're not going to go out and buy a good 60 or 80 dollar gun to buy the big can that will do ten windows, so you're going to run out and grab one of these just a canister of expansion foam, nice and simple. This is labeled for windows and doors it's, a few different kinds. This is a low expansion.
So you. Actually want to fill the cavity pretty considerably. They have other foam.
It expands marble dealers, put so much pressure on the plate that it'll actually make it too hard to open the window it'll, actually, Bend and bow this window, see how that can move use the wrong foam, it's going to be pinched, and then your window isn't going to open very well. So I always make sure you buy the right product for the job with a cute little knob with no gotta shake. The can perfect upright position. It is control.
Pressure, you don't want to fire it too quick. There we go now just run the head of your foam, it's. Okay, if it comes out not going to hurt anything.
Now, the goal here is to insulate wear the glasses. You don't have to bring it right out to the front of the plan. Basically you're taking that insulation line of the wall up through the glass and up through to the installation above again.
Now, when you get up top, then where you got to try to point your hose a little I'm going to come from the other. Angle just so you can see that on the camera better man, and I'm, just shooting ahead of it like this, keeping my nozzle just a little beneath inside the window and forcing the foam right to the outside well in that way, well, here's a little run on tip. We've got a little of foam left in the can remember the very beginning made a nasty mess on the wall, punched a hole with my hammer, well, here's a tip for you how to fix this mess, you can't repair that drywall, but you can fill this whole void. With this expansion foam, it will bond to all the little bits of the drywall.
There we go what we'll do is we'll. Come back in about an hour. Take my utility knife. Lay it up in the wall, slice it off. Now we only need two coats and Led's real quick of the taping knife, and you're ready to paint. And just for good measure as a precaution close your window lock it in position, while the foam is drying. Just in case, it's good to happen to be in the bigger, the window, the more you're going to want to have that in.
Position so now we're outside we're just going to seal up the old window important, just remove any of this a little of extra cocking that's there before this is actually part. Now we go. Okay, all right. So hi talking 101. You want to cut your tip the width of the bead that you want.
So we're looking at about, yeah, 3/8, that's, good on an angle, just like that put this in your gun. You have to puncture the seal on the inside first with most of these coffees. This is a is a quad. This is very good. Outdoors it has off gasses. You don't want to use this in the home because it'll smell awful, but outdoors the fresh air, you're, fine this bonds to the stone and to vinyl and wood and metal, no matter what you're sealing up on the outside of the house. This stuff works for your real good.
But what you don't want to do is you don't want to work it with your fingers, it makes it a heck of a mess. So when you're putting it on, you want to apply it in such a way that you're pushing it out on in the front. Of the tube, and then the backside of your edge that you cut is actually doing like a snowplow action, something like this, so you're, forcing it into the hole. And that is that's it right?
There see that action that is me forcing the caulking into the hole. You do not want to use your finger to rub that afterwards. Okay, take your time. Nice and slow don't get big dollops of it.
You do not want to try to wipe it to clean it up because it won't. Wipe nice, it starts to set almost instantly. So it is cold. Outside now, this particular caulking is rated for up to minus seven degrees and Laurie Canada so down in the States that's, a that's, a lot colder, check your label they'll have a specification right here. Blah, blah, physical properties, application raised -7 up to 38 degrees.
So if it gets too cold or too hot, you can't use it. But for the most part this product is pretty much designed for year-round. You never have to think twice. This is not a silicone.
You don't want to use outside in the cold. Weather, and so basically the installation is complete can head back inside now, clean up vacuum, our mess always leave the area cleaner than you found it. So now we're finished our window installation, I want to check look at that two finger, action, lovely, it's, not sticking the last thing we want to do here is we have these channels that are designed for receiving the jam. We were just going to cut or Jam down, and then put on some casing basic carpentry, I'm, sure you can all handle that, but let's get. Back to that little how to fix to repair a hole in the wall, our foam is no hard. I.
Take my knife press, it against the drywall slice off the extra. Oh, that little part there is easier we'll shoot up a little more foam. So the idea is once you're, nice and flush here and built up of foam, no taping, no joint tape. No fiberglass just cover it over with your mud, give it a couple of coats, and you can sand and paint that no time at all you.